Face Beauty Girl

Monday, January 4, 2010

OSCAR DE LA RENTA PRE-FALL 2010.

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

MODEL: CHRISTIE

PRE-FALL 2010 COLLECTION

"You have to make a woman fall in love with your clothes."

That was Oscar de la Renta backstage before his pre-fall show, talking about how to woo the customer during the recession.

Model: Yulia Kharlaponova

Up economy or down, special pieces, not basics, are this designer's MO, and at his runway show today, he sent out a few beauties.

On the more restrained side, there was a great pair of black denim toreador pants, worn with a pretty embroidered nude silk chiffon blouse, as well as a sexy plunging lace cocktail dress, also in black.

But de la Renta wasn't really in understated mode. His color palette was a spicy mix of canary yellow, vermillion, pink, and ruby, and he favored ikats, suzani embroideries, and bold patchworks to simpler fare.

Many of the looks were accessorized with scarves or little sweaters wrapped around the models' necks.

The multicolor patchwork carried into evening; he showed a long narrow skirt with a ruffled silk chiffon blouse and a can't-miss-it necklace.

Some clients might find that kind of full-on luxe too over-the-top, downturn or not.

Model: Angelika Kocheva

For them, de la Renta whipped up a black silk faille gown with plenty of drama on the left shoulder that looked special in a lower key.

MODEL:

KATIE FORGATY

MODEL:

VIKA KUROPYATNIKOVA

MODEL:

EMMA MACLAREN

MODEL:

KELSEY VAN MOOK

MODEL:

SIRI Tollerød

MODEL:

SOSHEBA GRIFFITHS

MODEL:

DAIANE CONTERATO

MODEL:

ALLA KOSTROMICHEVA

MODEL:

TAYLOR KRAEMER

MODEL:

REGINA FEOKTISTOVA

MODEL:

MARILIA

MODEL:

ELSA SYLVAN

MODEL:

KATLIN AAS

MODEL:

TARA GILL

OTHER MODELS:

Sharon Kavjian

Dorothea Barth Jorgensen

Ali Michael

Tatiana Kovylina

Marina Peres

Anastasija Kondratjeva

Anna de Rijk

Lyndsey Scott

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Christian Dior Spring 2010 RTW.

Karlie Kloss (NEXT)

Double respect is due to John Galliano this season. First, it was he who entered the subject of lingerie at the top of fashion's agenda.

Abbey Lee (NEXT)

Back in July, he showed his tailoring-with-underwear Christian Dior couture collection, and since then swaths of designers have being going at it with the visible frillies.

Frida Gustavsson (IMG)

Second, for ready-to-wear, he seized his advantage, melding a soft, delightfully thought-out version of the idea into a show with a forties film noir theme.

Natasha Poly (WOMEN)

Galliano said he found the cinematic cue while thinking about Lauren Bacall. "She was a great Dior client; there are amazing photos of her in the salon with Bogart. It was that and Arletty in Hôtel du Nord," he said.

Sasha Pivovarova (IMG)

That central character—a provocative, smoldering femme fatale with a side-parted, over-one-eye hairdo and red lips—gave him free reign to script a wardrobe narrative.

Maryna Linchuk (VIVA)

It started with abbreviated wartime trenchcoats, flipped through silver lamé dresses, arrived at a sequence in which the heroine is seen in her scanties, and then followed her out to make a drop-dead entrance in some nightclub or other.

Caroline Trentini (MARILYN)

Galliano turned the skimpies—French lace-trimmed cami-knickers and satin teddies—into a contemporary version of this summer's shorts and playsuits, following through with a trousseau's worth of pretty boudoir baby dolls and tiny, fragile flowered chiffon dresses.

Kasia Struss (WOMEN)

Cleverly, the transparencies—such as a purple satin bra-and-knicker set, apparently seen through black tulle—were an illusion created by stretch, paneled underlayers, so that the pieces are actually slipped on in one.

Alla Kostromicheva (WOMEN)

Stocking tops seen through the sheer panels in a copper lamé dress, and bras and panties glimpsed under a semitransparent tiered blue gown, were actually shadows stitched into underslips.

Karmen Pedaru (NEXT)

By night, the glamour was amped up even further, as Galliano put his heroine into a flesh pink corset and a long draped mint green sequin-sprinkled skirt, a Chantilly-smothered basque and black ruffled skirt, and a vamp red satin gown.

Olga Sherer (NATHALIE)

For perhaps the first time, it meant that Galliano had captured the romantic essence of his Dior couture and made sense of it as fully resolved ready-to-wear. It'll be expensive, of course, but oh so seductive.