JASON WU FALL / WINTER 2011/2012 READY TO WEAR

MODELOS:

DAPHNE GROENEVELD (O)

SIGRID AGREN

DARIA STROKOUS

GINTA LAPINA

PATRICIA VAN DER VLIET

KARMEN PEDARU

SUZIE BIRD

MING XI

SASKIA DE BRAUW

ROSE CORDERO

DOROTHEA BARTH JORGENSEN

HANNE GABY ODIELE

EMILIA NAWARECKA

FEI FEI SUN

RUBY ALDRIDGE

JULIA SANER

HAILEY CLAUSON

ARIZONA MUSE

LIU WEN

JACQUELYN JABLONSKI

ALLA KOSTROMICHOVA

JUJU IVANYUK

ZUZANA BIJOCH

VALERIJA KELAVA

CHANTAL STAFFORD-ABBOTT

LINDSEY WIXSON

ANAIS MALI

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CAROLINE BRASCH NIELSEN

NIMUE SMIT

ALANA ZIMMER

FRIDA GUSTAVSSON

TATI COTLIAR

JOAN SMALLS

MIRTE MAAS

KARLIE KLOSS

JOURDAN DUNN (C)

WILLOW SPRING 2011 RTW

Patricia van der Vliet (NEW YORK MODEL)

Florence Welch of Florence + the Machine might have a bone to pick with Australian up-and-comer Kit Willow. The British pop star has been wearing pieces from the designer's body-conscious Fall collection on the concert circuit. (Net-a-Porter had to reorder the long-sleeved tattoo dress after the singer wore it on the red carpet in August.) But Willow—perhaps inspired by her second pregnancy—has set off in a less flashy and rather timely new direction for Spring. Taking cues from nature, not the nightclub, she designed a lush digital print on silk tulle and a cotton viscose knit from an enlarged image of a wild zebra's mohawk and cut them into an asymmetrically draped party dress and a tank and sarong pant set, respectively.

Melissa Tammerijn (NEW YORK MODEL)

Balancing those and other tribal elements like shell embroidery and wooden beading were sharply cut, wear-with-everything tailored pieces, such as a single-button white leather jacket and a double-breasted blazer in military drab. For evening, Willow embellished a black zip-up vest and miniskirt with metal and plastic paillettes and tossed both of them over an acid yellow bra. Maybe there's something here for Welch, after all.

Sigrid Agren (NEW YORK MODEL)

Patricia van der Vliet

Melissa Tammerijn

Sigrid Agren

Patricia van der Vliet

Sigrid Agren

Patricia van der Vliet

Sigrid Agren

Melissa Tammerijn

Patricia van der Vliet

Melissa Tammerijn

Patricia van der Vliet

Melissa Tammerijn

Sigrid Agren

Patricia van der Vliet

Melissa Tammerijn

Sigrid Agren

Patricia van der Vliet

Melissa Tammerijn

Sigrid Agren

Melissa Tammerijn

Patricia van der Vliet

BALENCIAGA S/S 2010.

BALENCIAGA S/S 10

MODELS:

ISELIN STEIRO, MIRTE MAAS AND PATRICIA VAN DER VLIET.

BY STEVEN MEISEL.

Giles Deacone Spring 2010 RTW.

Daphne Guinness

Winning the French ANDAM award may only have shuffled Giles Deacon to the graveyard slot on the Paris schedule, but he made the very best of the situation with a spoofy-spooky Scooby-Doo-ish show starring his very own Daphne (Guinness, that is).

Bregje Heinen (WOMEN)

Debuting on the bottom rung of the Paris schedule after years of being top dog in London didn't faze this most genial of designers. Instead, it made him sharpen up his act so that the cute, sixties-cartoonish, neon, pastel, and metallic collection full of delightful prom dresses turned out to be the first truly coherent outing of his career—with tons of playful accessories thrown in.

Alla Kostromicheva (WOMEN)

"You have to make it more concise here," he said. "I just wanted to do more real-life, obtainable clothes." Deacon's line is now produced under a new license deal with the Italian manufacturer Castor SRL.

Kamila Filipcikova (IMG)

That means his deliciously detailed peach, apricot, and lime froufrou dance dresses and Monroe-ish sheaths in draped tulle or 3-D "dragon-stitch knit" (a genius design by Sid Bryan, a London specialist friend) may hit stores at a competitive speed next spring.

Dorothea Barth Jorgensen (ELITE)

They deserve a place, too—as do the nutty, teenager-ish accessories: Cutler and Gross "Scooby" sunglasses with pink printed frames, spider and scorpion jewelry, neon pegs and gold-plated bulldog clips to stick in hair and festoon collars—not to mention really silly soft-toy dinosaur bags.

Shu Pei Qin (NEXT)

Like so much else this season, Deacon's collection is young, and it has a believable, cheerful personality that should see him holding his own. As a footnote to the season, Deacon also smartly confirmed the new shoe shape that will come as a blessed relief to all the platform-weary fashion foot soldiers who are limping home from the field on planes and trains right now. It is, of course, the kitten heel.

Rianne Ten Haken (WOMEN)

Deacon's version is attached to a long, low, pointy plastic and snakeskin last—provided by Christian Louboutin. Let's hope he makes enough to slake demand.

Sharon Kavjian

Natasha Poly (WOMEN)

Egle Tvirbutaite (NEXT)

Dree Hemingway (ELITE)

Anna Selezneva (SILENT)

Sara Blomqvist (VIVA)

Jeneil Williams (FORD)

Ginta Lapina (WOMEN)

Karlie Kloss (NEXT)

Vlada Roslyakova (WOMEN)

Rose Cordero

Iris Strubegger (WOMEN)

Elsa Sylvan (VIVA)

Kamila Filipcikova (IMG)

Alla Kostromicheva (WOMEN)

Irina Kulikova (IMG)

Daphne Guinness

Bregje Heinen (WOMEN)

Magdalena Frackowiak (ELITE)

Natasha Poly (WOMEN)

Kasia Struss (WOMEN)

Sara Blomqvist (VIVA)

Dorothea Barth Jorgensen (ELITE)

Rianne Ten Haken (WOMEN)

Egle Tvirbutaite (NEXT)

Frida Gustavsson (IMG)

Ieva Laguna (WOMEN)

Sharon Kavjian

Rose Cordero

Jeneil Williams (FORD)

Anna Selezneva (SILENT)

Kirsty Hume (VIVA)

Dree Hemingway (ELITE)

Mirte Maas (WOMEN)

Patricia van der Vliet (ELITE)