Showing posts with label Sona Matufkova. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sona Matufkova. Show all posts
Thursday, May 6, 2010
Monday, October 26, 2009
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Chloé Spring 2010 RTW.
Freja Beha Erichsen (IMG)One thing's for certain: There are going to be an awful lot of beige jackets and pants, khaki shirts, and colorless chiffon things to choose from—or possibly shy away from—when Spring deliveries arrive.
Sona Matufkova (IMG)Watching Chloé made one realize how risky it can be, in competition terms, to be on-trend, and exactly what discriminating choices store buyers will have to make between one designer's take and another's, if their selling floors aren't going to stretch like an executive dust bowl as far as the eye can see.
Sasha Pivovarova (IMG)That is not to say that Hannah MacGibbon doesn't have a personal point of view. Her take on the roomy jacket and easy trouser and the khaki button-down shirt is more boyish than most, and her girl has a refreshingly natural look—all recently washed hair and un-made-up skin.
Elsa Sylvan (VIVA)She also dispenses with the agony of high heels, preferring the comfort of flat leather walking sandals (a choice Marco Zanini, too, made at Rochas). That was fair enough, and the occasional long skirts that came with the tailoring offered a cool, different way to put things together.
Bregje Heinen (WOMEN)But then came a puzzling passage of ponchos and jodhpur-ish stirrup pants that threw up the question of which season MacGibbon was thinking about, and when the floaty, fluttery side of Chloé was going to show up.
Kasia Struss (WOMEN)It did, eventually, in some really pretty plissé flyaway layered chiffons (of the color-free kind).
Anya Kazakova (MARILYN)Meanwhile, MacGibbon also did her duty by the house by sending out some looks, like a generic flea-market outfit of denim shirt and jeans, that trained the eye on the Chloé leather goods on offer: to wit, a series of chestnut crocodile vintage-y bags with brass turn-key fastenings, slung on long straps across the body. In all? It was a generally serviceable collection for the brand, but in a slightly minor key.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Calvin Klein Spring 2010 RTW.
Sona MatufkovaPracticing his signature brand of arty minimalism, Francisco Costa replaced the sharp angles and dark colors of his Fall lineup with soft, organic shapes and light-reflecting neutrals. It made for a Spring collection more sensuous than blatantly sexy—and more youthful in feeling than his recent efforts.
Jac He opened with a white one-sleeve bubble dress that, like the needle-punched nylon coat that came down the runway a few looks later, caught air behind the model as she walked. When he wasn't experimenting with volume, Costa was creating interesting textures: smocking and puckering cotton voile for an A-line shift, or hand-pleating and pintucking an organdy dress.
Nimue Smit Playing natural off techno, and sheer against opaque, the designer sent out mohair jacquard tank dresses that shaded from black to brown to gray and revealed subtle swaths of skin. The only departure from the show's earthy palette was a group of crinkled silk-cotton tank dresses and asymmetrical shifts in shades of pale aqua, citron, coral, and jade.
Frida GustavssonIf there's a criticism to be made, it's that the unstructured bareness of these clothes requires the sylphlike frame of a Thandie Newton, who sat in the front row along with Eva Mendes, Rose Byrne, and Jamie Dornan. But the weightless ease of these dresses has an undeniable appeal; this was a serene beauty of a collection from Costa.











































Anabela Belikova




















