EMILIO PUCCI RESORT 2011

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Peter Dundas is still coming off the high of seeing his dresses on the red carpet at Cannes last month. "It's nice to be on an elevator going up," he said, rather fittingly, at a penthouse presentation of his Resort collection for Pucci.

The Florentine label has that famous Mediterranean summer vibe in its blood lines, and with a coffee-table book on the history of the house coming out later this summer, Dundas had lots of material to rifle through for inspiration.

Channeling Jane Birkin, Julie Christie, Bianca Jagger, and their fabulous kind, he turned out long-sleeve minidresses in guipure lace; sheer, breezy caftans to wear over matching bikinis; and seventies-inflected washed linen three-piece suits.

But this wasn't a retro rehash. Exploring effects similar to the ones he used for Fall, the designer purposely faded or over-dyed the house's familiar prints; the cotton silk voile tank dresses didn't look as if they'd been worn every summer for years, but, thanks to the treatments, they felt as soft as if they had been.

After dark, Dundas amped up the sex appeal—a key factor in the energy he's brought to this house. Those micro-minidresses that got all that publicity in Cannes are back and beaded all over in a butterfly motif. More celebrity material for the next Pucci retrospective.

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Dsquared² Spring 2011 menswear

Julian Kaye, Richard Gere's character inAmerican Gigolo, was the man of the hour for Dsquared² designers Dean and Dan Caten. Audience members found Julian's eviction notice from the Beverly Hills Residence Apartments, plus his business card, on their chairs.

BIANCA BALTI

Time for him to hustle—with Dsquared² ready to supply the wardrobe. It was a typically great setup from the twins, and they were faithful to their theme. The only problem? Julian's wardrobe was an expensive study in anonymity—in his line of work, it was a bad idea to stand out.

EVANDRO SOLDATI

So a pink shirt with immaculate boot-cut blue jeans was just about it. Likewise the check shirt and navy blazer, or the pale blue jacket with the apricot tee and white shorts (that would be Julian's rig for a call-out to a bungalow at the Beverly Hills Hotel).

PATRICK KAFKA

In the past, Dsquared²'s themes have given them full license to compose harebrained hymns to porn-star excess. And nobody did it better. This season, it felt as though theAmerican Gigolo scenario was intended to give them a platform on which to display their grown-up aptitude for tastefully "classic" menswear.

And if that's the case, then they could count the show a success. They know how to cut a silk mohair tux. But when even Brazilian super-mannequin Evandro Soldati, in a cream suit with lilac shirt unbuttoned down to there, looked tame, you could feel in your gut that, by the standards the Catens have set themselves, they'd missed the mark.

OSCAR SPENDRUP

MIGUEL IGLESIAS

FRANCISCO LACHOWSKI

ARTHUR SALES

VLADIMIR IVANOV

BIANCA BALTI

VLADIMIR IVANOV

PATRICK KAFKA

EVANDRO SOLDATI

OSCAR SPENDRUP

VLADIMIR IVANOV

MIGUEL IGLESIAS

FRANCISCO LACHOWSKI

ARTHUR SALES

BIANCA BALTI

Dean and Dan Caten with Bianca Balti